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Alex Honnold

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2016-05-17
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2016-05-17
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  1. See, I feel like I don't have any of the highs, and I kind of go from level to like slightly below level to back. You know, it's all like, it's all pretty flat, I feel like.

    2016-05-17 · The Tim Ferriss Show · #160: Assessing Risk and Living Without a Rope – Lessons from Alex Honnold · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  2. Yeah, yeah. No, I think, I mean, I think I kind of gravitate towards being a somewhat depressed person. I don't know. Or I don't know, actually. Or I'm just sort of like flat.

    2016-05-17 · The Tim Ferriss Show · #160: Assessing Risk and Living Without a Rope – Lessons from Alex Honnold · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  3. And, you know, I mean, there's definitely a lot of uncertainty there because, I mean, I can't even click the power button on my phone without pretty serious pain with my right hand right now. But it's been two days and it's kind of improving. Which is kind of how China went. I was like, well, you know, I can at least do all the work towards what I'm trying to climb while I'm crippled. And then by the time it was ready, by the time I was ready to actually try to climb the root, I was like, oh, well, I'm actually feeling good enough by now. And I was able to do it.

    2016-05-17 · The Tim Ferriss Show · #160: Assessing Risk and Living Without a Rope – Lessons from Alex Honnold · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  4. And then actually just like two days ago, I took a weird fall. Well, actually, I took a totally normal fall, but I somehow tweaked my hand in a weird way. And actually, I mean, you can probably see the back of my right hand. Yeah, I was looking at that. Yeah, my right hand is like all messed up right now.

    2016-05-17 · The Tim Ferriss Show · #160: Assessing Risk and Living Without a Rope – Lessons from Alex Honnold · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  5. You're invincible. No, I mean, it's funny you ask me just in the last two months, I've had two sort of random injuries that are super annoying, which I haven't really had any kind of injuries climbing in years or like ever really. But last month in April, I got dropped by my partner, so I got lowered off the end of a rope and a compression fracture two vertebrae on my back, and I was ultra bruised. And so my hips and butt and stuff, you know, my back's been really tight and I've been kind of achy, though that worked out kind of okay. It was two days before I was supposed to fly to China for a climbing expedition. And so I was like, well, all the travel time will sort of be like good rest, I guess. And then I got there and I was like a creaky old man, but I actually did manage to climb the thing that we were hoping to do. And it all kind of worked out okay in the end. But, you know, there was definitely, it was a little touch and go because I was like, at first, I mean, when I was going to the airport to fly to China, I couldn't even lift my duffel bags because my back was too sore and everything was too creaky.

    2016-05-17 · The Tim Ferriss Show · #160: Assessing Risk and Living Without a Rope – Lessons from Alex Honnold · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  6. And so part of that, I mean, I'm obviously saving for retirement and things like that, trying to be responsible with money. And then I've also started foundation where I've been giving probably a third of my income now to environmental nonprofit things. But yeah, basically, I mean, honestly, the foundation was kind of my response to that kind of stuff because I was like, I just don't need to make more. But the thing is, it is actually kind of fun to make more. You know, it's like fun to do the random opportunities, like to do a commercial project or to give some talk to some interesting company or, you know, whatever. I mean, it's kind of fun to be able to hustle out money like that. But then it's like equally fun to be able to, you know, use that money for something positive, which is, you know, through the foundation, basically.

    2016-05-17 · The Tim Ferriss Show · #160: Assessing Risk and Living Without a Rope – Lessons from Alex Honnold · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  7. I mean, that is interesting because, and I've thought about this a lot over the years because for, say, the first five or seven years that I was living in the van, my overhead's probably 10 to 15K a year. And I now obviously make a lot more than that through sponsorship. And just doing like one commercial or something, you know, I can make many times what I need to live in the road for a long time.

    2016-05-17 · The Tim Ferriss Show · #160: Assessing Risk and Living Without a Rope – Lessons from Alex Honnold · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  8. They try to skip ahead. Yeah, exactly. No, I don't really worry that much when I sleep. I mean, the stuff that I get stressed about is all like real life stuff with, you know, dealing with email and responding to calls and like, you know, hustling and I don't know, like doing my taxes, you know, like all the stuff that I'm just like not good at.

    2016-05-17 · The Tim Ferriss Show · #160: Assessing Risk and Living Without a Rope – Lessons from Alex Honnold · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  9. I was like, that's a quick 180. Yeah. This is going to be full of all sorts of weird 90 great shirts. Yeah, keep listeners on their toes, you know?

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  10. Yeah, tissue strikes really quickly. Well, particularly as an adult, I mean, if you start climbing as a kid, then you gain muscle at the same. You know, that's why, yeah.

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  11. No, I mean, the main ways to save energy or to keep your weight on your feet, which is kind of the same thing, to stay balanced over your feet so that all as much weight as possible is on your feet so you're just standing, and then to keep your arms straight or to keep all your limbs straight so that you're hanging off your skeleton more than your muscles. Because if you have your arms bent at 90 degrees like a T-Rex or something, then you're like totally engaging your bicep and your lats and you're getting tired. If you have your arms totally straight, then you're only engaging just as much muscle as you need to keep your fingers holding on, but everything else is relaxed because you're hanging off your bones.

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  12. I would say the right things are movement and technique. And so how you move over the rock has nothing to do with how well you can hold on or like how hard you pull. It has to do with Knowing where your center of mass is and being able to move your body around in the right way so that you can stay balanced over your feet and you can move yourself upward with your feet.

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  13. It's like one of those things where, I mean, if I was trying to train somebody to be a good rock climber, I would focus on movement and technique and footwork and all those kinds of things. But if somebody was like in eight weeks, I have to be able to boulder a certain difficulty level. I'd be like, well, I mean, just start training your fingers and hope that you don't get injured. But obviously that's not a sustainable. Like if you're trying to be a good climber, that's not the way to do it. It's better to start with the foundation.

    2016-05-17 · The Tim Ferriss Show · #160: Assessing Risk and Living Without a Rope – Lessons from Alex Honnold · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  14. I don't know, I'd have to think about it a lot because, I mean, particularly with bowling, it's sort of, it's interesting. So adults are more prone to injury than kids to some extent, and especially with something like bouldering, where it's really heavy on fingers. Basically, it's really easy to injure your fingers and hands because all the connective tissue and tendons and ligaments take a very, very long time to strengthen. So, I mean, there's no real shortcut to avoiding tendon injury. Whereas an adult, like a 25 year old male would gain muscle mass super fast, so really quickly they could exceed the capacity of their tendons and basically just rip their tendons out of their arms.

    2016-05-17 · The Tim Ferriss Show · #160: Assessing Risk and Living Without a Rope – Lessons from Alex Honnold · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  15. I didn't have a lot of mentors. I mean, I kind of just grew up in the gym just climbing a lot. So I didn't really have mentors. I mean, I definitely had people that I looked up to and people in the climate community, but that's just sort of the typical hero worshipy style. Peter Croft was a really prominent solos from this generation before me. And I was like, oh, Peter's the man. And, you know, Chris Sharm obviously was like setting all kinds of world record type things when I was a kid. And I was just like, oh, he's so amazing. And Tommy Caldwell was also a big hero, which has been cool because now I get acclimatic as an adult. And I'm just like, oh, that's pretty cool. I'm still always excited to climb with Tommy.

    2016-05-17 · The Tim Ferriss Show · #160: Assessing Risk and Living Without a Rope – Lessons from Alex Honnold · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  16. I mean, Jimmy's never been the best free client. Like, you know, I mean, he's not doing one arm pullups on small edges and he's not like climbing the hardest sport routes, but he's always been able to get to the top of big walls and then been able to do that in the mountains, you know, with ice and snow and bad conditions. And so he sort of, the climbing that he's been good at has been like farther along the spectrum of, you know, big and badass than the type of climbing, you know, because I grew up in a climbing gym and then sort of gradually extended to like big rock walls and he sort of started on big rock walls and then extended into the bigger mountains.

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  17. Which Yumichan is predominantly a photographer, so his climbing is not really climbing, it's mostly just going up behind people to take pictures. But I'm talking to you, Jimmy. No. I mean, so Jimmy has been classically more of a big wall climber.

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  18. Well Basically, I mean, I haven't done a lot of Alpinism, and I still can't ice climb at all. I've never led a pitch of ice, but I've actually done a handful of things that are considered noteworthy alpine ascents now, but it has more to do with choosing the right partners because I go with somebody who's way more experienced than me or just someone who has much more of a plan. And then it's sort of about the division of labor, you know, like someone who's good at one thing and then I'm obviously good at the rock climbing component of it. So even though I'm a total beginner with the ice climbing and with all the logistics and the camping and like dealing with living on a glacier, all that kind of stuff is totally new to me. But at least I know how to do the climbing pretty well. So then, you know, you just find the teammate who compliments the skill set well, and then you can go out and climb all kinds of crazy things.

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  19. So, alpinism, I guess, is basically just climbing bigger mountains or big snowy or icy faces or granite walls that are also covered with ice. I don't know. I mean, alpinism is just climbing the things that you see in posters where you're like, whoa, that looks like a big scary mountain. You know, because I've always been more of a rock climber, which is climbing like vertical dry granite walls. Alpinism is like when you do that in more remote places and you hike across a glacier, you get to the bottom of some huge, icy face, and then you do all kinds of shenanigans to get to the top.

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  20. Obsessed with details. You get nitty gritty. I don't know. I mean, so I used to be sponsored by Cliff Barr, so I do shop blocks and Z-bars. I love the Z-Bars, the little kids cliff bars, mostly because they're kind of half sized. They're like 100 calories, and they basically taste like a cookie, so I can always eat them because they're just kind of delicious. But now I've been kind of getting more into nut butters and things. Though the typical free solos are short enough that you don't really need a full hearty meal, you can kind of get by with like a pack of shot blocks or one little one sugary thing to just kind of keep you going It's on like bigger climbs like alpinism or something where you have to take like a lot of you know fatty like higher calorie food.

    2016-05-17 · The Tim Ferriss Show · #160: Assessing Risk and Living Without a Rope – Lessons from Alex Honnold · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  21. Well, people frequently ask, what do you do if you have to pee or whatever? Because they think, I mean, I think that people have the wrong impression that free soling a big wall is just like holding on for dear life the whole time, but they're actually all kinds of little ledges. Like even a ledge the size of, say, a pizza tray is big enough for you to stand there comfortably, no hands. Right. And so, I mean, that's an easy place that you could take a leak. You could, you know, take a sip of water. You can eat a little bar. And anytime I'm on a ledge, say the size of a sofa cushion or something, I'll basically pop my shoes off and relax my toes for a minute because climbing shoes are quite tight. So like your feet start to cramp after a while. I mean, there's a lot more self-care going on up there than people might think.

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  22. Aside from the don't let that give the wrong idea because normally you try to poo and better places, preferably a toilet, or at least burying it properly at the base or, you know, like being responsible about it. But from time to time, that happens.

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  23. Pull my shorts down just like normal, like anything. Yeah. Okay. Yeah. I mean, it was actually totally easy. I mean, I'd call it a space dump. Yeah, Clem would call it like a perfect space dump. It just like taking a dump and a free space and it just disappears.

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  24. Yeah, so I sort of just like meandered to the left twenty feet. And this flake that I was hanging off, it was like fairly big, and I had a backpack on me with my shoes and some water and some food random things that you kind of need for, you know, going up a long route like that. And it had some TP in it, so I shoved my back back into the flake. And I just hung there off of it and basically just took a poop straight off the wall, just like while hanging. And then, you know, like wiped, tidied up is all good. And then put my pack back on, traverse back in, and then finish the root. It's like so.

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  25. Yeah, it's like it's actually one of the most striking granite walls in the world. It's this totally beautiful root on this crazy spire. It's an amazing, amazing root. It's something I thought about for a long time. And it's actually quite difficult. And so I was going up there to Free Solo. It was like kind of a big thing for me. And I was way stoked. And typically when you get to the base of a free solo like that, if you have to poop at all, you have to go then when you're at the base. But I just like, I don't know. It just didn't quite happen. And so I started climbing. And that route the first 400 feet or so were like pretty moderate train. And then it goes into like some pretty extreme terrain for the second 400 feet. And so basically right before I got into the real stuff, I was like, oh, now I really need to shit. I was like, oh man, you know, basically I was like, oh, it's about to get real up here. And like now I need to poop. And so I basically hand traversed on this little feature. So I traversed off the root because it's really poor form to like shit on a root because obviously people have to climb that.

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  26. Okay, so two years ago, I guess I was free-souling this root called Romanic Warrior in the Needles, which is actually a super-

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  27. Will the no lunch thing make sense when you're up on wall for the day? Or if you're like out at the cliff, or it's just like a bunch of work to take a real meal?

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  28. Yeah, so I rarely eat a lunch per se. I pretty much always just snack for several hours in the middle of the day, normally like a couple pieces of fruit, maybe some nut butter, you know, a bar or two or something. And then I eat like a big dinner. I normally do a pretty big breakfast and a pretty big dinner and then just snack throughout the rest.

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  29. Generally, well, so I've kind of gone through two main phases, I guess. I used to always do like an egg scramble for breakfast, and now I pretty much always do some kind of muesli concoction with fruit and some kind of alternative milk stuff and flaxseed hemp parts, like random things, sort of like a wholesome muesly m

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  30. I don't know. I mean, mom likes to talk about how I always climb it on everything as a kid and how it was such a wild child. But though I honestly feel like she's kind of like. She talks about that more now that I am an actual professional climber. You know, I feel like had I become an engineer, she would instead focus on stories of like, how I always love to play with blocks or do whatever. But and my whole family would always tell stories about how I was such a picky eater and how I'd only eat, you know, cheerios and bread and like whatever. I don't know.

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  31. And there were two groups busied on the ledge, and two of the people were just passed out, and the other two guys were like cooking dinner. And so I pop over the one side of the ledge and I'm like, hey, so could I borrow a chalk bag? And they were like, yeah, I mean, I guess, like, no problem, you know? One of the guys gave me this chalk bag that was like completely full of like fresh chalk. I was so stoked. And then I took his chalk bag and then I climbed to the top of the root. And then I left it tied to the tree on top. I think I got it back. I met him again later. And yeah, so they got their chalk bag back like four days later.

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  32. And in the logistical shuffle and the darkness, whatever, I forgot my chalk bag. So I basically climbed the first thousand feet of the nose without a chalk bag and was like, which is kind of a bummer. I mean, that's definitely not ideal. It's an understatement of debt. And it actually rained a bunch the day before. So the bottom pitches, which are lower angle, were fairly wet, and I was constantly trying to dry my hands on my shirt. And it was just all kind of scary. And so I got up to this ledge called Dolt Tower, which is, you know, about a quarter of the way up the wall.

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  33. Yeah, free soling means that you're free climbing, and free climbing means using your hands and your feet and not using gear. And so if you're free soling, it means that you're climbing with just your hands and your feet by yourself, like no gear, no anything. Got it. But so in this case, I was soloing, so I had gear, and I was soloing the three largest faces in Yosemite in a day. So Mount Watkins, which is like way up at one end of the valley, and I'd done that first, and then I came down and I was climbing the nose of Al Capitan through the night.

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  34. Yeah, so I was soloing the AI link up in Yosemite, so I wasn't free soloing, but I was climbing by myself. So I had a little bit of, I had a small rope and I had to gear up.

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  35. Well, no, I mean, that's kind of it, yeah, just the ease of living. You know, basically it just cuts away everything except for what I want to be. I mean, because my goal is basically to climb as much as I can. And that's what I enjoy most in life is climbing. And so everything else to some extent is a distraction from that. And so, you know, I basically just cut away what I don't need.

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  36. I don't know. I mean, I've never really thought of any comprehensive life philosophy or anything. You know, I don't feel like I have a particular set of principles that I live by, though I suppose I'm pretty minimalistic and I'm leading a fairly simple life and I mean, I guess that's basically how I live. I don't know.

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  37. Reverse the sensation, one type of which could be fear. Yeah, and I think through how airy certain positions will feel, because sometimes you can be all spread out with the void below you and you're just like, wow, this is like quite the quite the air around me. And so it's good to have thought about that, basically to think through all potential things beforehand so when you're up there, there's no unexpected thing that happens.

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  38. No, I don't really talk like that. But normally if I'm planning on doing something challenging, I spend the time sort of visualizing what the experience will feel like and what the individual section. So, I mean, with climbing, there's a component to it just memorizing the actual moves. So I'll think through the sequences and make sure that I remember which foot to move in which order and how to do everything. And then particularly if it's a free solo or something, if I'm climbing rope less, then I'll think through what it'll feel like to be in certain positions. Because some kinds of movements are insecure. And so they're just like kind of scarier than other types of moves. And so it's important to me to sort of think through how that all feel when I'm up there so that when I'm doing it, I don't suddenly be like, oh my God, this is really scary. You know, like I know that it's supposed to be scary. I know that's going to be the move. I know what it's going to feel like and I just do it.

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  39. No, there was an ultimate solo thing that got pitched me once, and I was like, dude, you can't just take random people off the street and train them how to solo for six weeks and then just set them off of a big wall. It's like, you know, I was like, you may as well just have gladiators fighting lions in the pit. You know, it's like people will literally die on your television show. You don't want people die on TV. No, no, no. That's exactly what we want. I was like, are you guys kidding? Because you have to insure the show and everything. No one's going to make this because half your contestants are going to die straight up. That's so messed up.

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  40. Though actually there have been pitches with that kind of stuff though, which are pretty comical. What? I'd love to see the actual

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  41. Yeah, though, climbing has never had anything quite that I don't follow fighting at all, but I've even heard of Ultimate Fighter and that kind of stuff. And so I don't think climbing has really had that. You know, there's no big hit reality TV climbing show, you know?

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  42. Yeah, to some extent. I really doubt that any particular climbing film can be responsible for growing the whole industry. You know, it has more to do with tons of people like going to gyms and trying it and enjoying it and going more often.

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  43. Do you not think that's true a little bit, but I honestly think that part of it is just having the facilities, like the more good gyms there are in urban centers, the more people just wind up trying it with their friends or whatever. You know, when you have like a nice bouldering gym next to a college campus, like everybody tries it because it's fun, it's sociable, everybody has a good time. And I feel like that sort of grows the sport.

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  44. I mean, I think it's great. I mean, there is obviously criticism. I mean, you can find stuff online, you can always find traditionalists and stuff who are like, this isn't the way it was when I grew up, so I don't think it should be this way. Or like, oh, I feel like it's corrupting the art of climbing or whatever else, you know, having corporate money coming into the climbing world is tainting the artistic experience. I mean, whatever. I mean, you know, you can find criticism for it. I think it's great. I mean, obviously, since I'm making a living from it and I'm able to go climbing all the time, you know, I'm very content with the whole situation. But mostly I just feel like it's sort of a natural outgrowth. I mean, climbing gyms are becoming much more popular because people enjoy climbing, you know, and so if people are into it and the industry's making money, then power to it.

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  45. Well, so I actually just left it with a friend of mine who built it out while I was on an expedition in Patagonia this winter. And so he just made it nice. I mean, you know, a super nice bed and like a kitchen and good cabinetry and, you know, a refrigerator. It's basically a really small apartment. It's super nice.

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  46. Well, I just sold my old man, so I lived in a van for nine years, and I just sold it to one of my cousins because I was just kind of over it. I felt like I sort of outgrew it. And so now I have a Dodge Pro Master, which I can stand in, which is a big, big upgrade. How tall? I'm like five.

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  47. A yeah, I mostly live my car, but then I'm overseas a lot more now and then when I'm traveling for work stuff I get put up in hotels or whatever but yeah I mean I'm still focused in the van.

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  48. Well, so I mean, I guess that just means somebody who like a lifestyle climate, like somebody who just lives to climb. So it's like the full-time on the road, you know, doing whatever it takes to be a climber, I guess. I mean, being a dirbag isn't a negative thing in the climbing community. It's just like, oh, that guy's committed to the cause. And I'm sure there's the same kind of term for like the surf community or whatever else, you know, people who just like live to go mountain biking or surfing or whatever, you know, taking odd jobs and just doing their thing just to be able to do their sport as much as they can.

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  49. I mean, there were a handful of professional climbers when I started, but it was such a small, there wasn't like a climbing industry. It was really small.

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  50. I don't know, that's a tough. But, I mean, the obvious choice is as a climber would be somewhere like Boulder, Colorado or, say, Salt Lake or Flagstaff or any of the cities that are sort of Las Vegas, actually places that are known as climbing hubs where you have great outdoor climbing all around them. And I could see living in any of those places if I had to. Or like, say, I got married to somebody to live there or something crazy. I could see being happy in any of those cities. Though honestly, I love Portland too, though there's no real climbing there, and it's not a great place to live as a climber, and the climate's terrible with too much rain. But as far as progressive cities that go, it's probably my favorite city in the country.

    2016-05-17 · The Tim Ferriss Show · #160: Assessing Risk and Living Without a Rope – Lessons from Alex Honnold · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT