YouSaid · the spoken record

Erdem Moralioglu

lines on the record: 32
first: 2024-07-01
most recent: 2024-07-01
sittings or episodes: 1
sources: podcast

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“It kind of felt very important to show her as a young woman, to show her as a mom, to show her as a grandmother, to show her in every stage of her life. But I loved her kid white kid gloves framed or a section of the hunting tapestry or a picture of Elvis, all of those things we kept going back to.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“That's a little snippet of the kind of working table that we kind of recreated, but literally kind of just, there were just so many things we just brought from the studio just to give a feeling of that process, which again, I think a lot of people don't necessarily understand how you can kind of go from A to B in terms of creating a collection. In a weird way, we kind of tried to almost start with the show and then kind of almost take it apart towards the end.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“And it's huge. It's gigantic. Maybe you can't get a sense of its scale, but she has these kind of beautiful blue, kind of huge, piercing eyes when you walk into that room. And that is actually the Mary Queen of Scots bedroom. So it's interesting. I kind of feel like the atmosphere in that room is slightly different to everywhere else in the house. It's odd. And twelve's, which is in the kind of the studio room. If the studio was wallpapered in 17th century or 18th century chintz, but in the most beautiful way, it's just full of light and the kind of cotton twal. It was also just to show visitors the kind of the process of how you get to shapes and part of that creative process.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“Was a whole series of dresses that were kind of inspired by the inner section of that yellow dress. And I think the yellow dress is coming up. But this also was made up of some kind of odd shintzi fabrics. And then behind it is a lot of fabrics that hung in depot's bedroom that Susie kind of dug up and re-draped and it's this kind of crazy textile world that she created. Those are three dresses from pre-collection actually that led to spring summer but very much about the bug brooches mixed with kind of underbinnings. And then here's the yellow underpinning dress. You can see it would have created like a kind of almost bustle shape on the back of the yellow couture gown and then the dress on the left is one of the finale dresses from the collection and then an amazing portrait of Debo by John Albrecht from 1960.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“Other rooms. So there's a kind of nice intimacy to some of it, to a lot of it actually. But really, Susie was the most amazing curator. So it was wonderful to work with her.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“There's also something very interesting there. They're called the guest apartments, and so the shows are spread out over two of these guest apartments, which sounds very kind of small. They're not small at all. One of them's Mary Queen of Scots bedroom and dressing room. It's so interesting. So we have, there's a, you know, the exhibit continues into this room that Mary Queen of Scots actually stayed in during her when she was a prisoner in England. And so interesting, it was kind of pointed out to me that that room that she slept in points inwards into the inner courtyard so she was never, she couldn't have escaped, which is so interesting. But the exhibits kind of spread out over a series of rooms that are quite almost domestic, if I can say, in their size. They're kind of rational for... Compared to other”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“This is a kind of two car coats that were kind of oversized, but this kind of idea of fraying and Susie found these amazing curtains after she had seen the kind of the fabrics. And this is what I love about Chatsworth is you have a kind of amazing, beautiful kind of graphic jacquard set of curtains and then the same fabric is on the chair and they belong to the sixth duke. They're from kind of 18 something. Because the ones on the left were kind of rolled up and kept in a store and the chair was actually used you have like the exact same thing but one's totally in decay. But beautifully, and I loved that both kind of exist. I thought that was so kind of beautiful. This is the dress I was talking about earlier, the dress that she had made locally in the village.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“So you can see this is actually the first room when you walk in, and you can see some of the kind of Elvis dresses. Some of the kind of chintzy pieces, but all very much kind of inspired by kind of mid century kind of looking at a lot of underwear as well from mid-century and kind of how those pieces were constructed. And Susie showed us there was an amazing dining room that had originally kind of a blue wall covering Had gone silver, and I loved the idea. And then I think maybe it got taken down, but I love the idea of a room kind of turning silver and that kind of inspired a series of exits. But I think there's a few more pictures from the show.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“But that was so kind of interesting because I think when you do this job, you show a collection and as I said before, it kind of exists in this one moment. So it was when you talked about this opportunity to have the show and have it kind of live on. It was so wonderful and then to work with Susie and then also to kind of show the thought processes that go behind it, the kind of the connections and the threads between her.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“Exactly that. And then the two middle looks were very much kind of inspired by Elvis, but Elvis with the kind of very strict white shirt. And these amazing images of Elvis performing in Hawaii in the late 60s has this very distinct embroidery. And I love the idea of taking some of her kind of jewelry kind of motifs and combining it with Elvis and the far right is a skirt that has this kind of neon kind of iteration of the hunting tapestries that were sold to the nation in order to make sure that the house could live on, let's say, and with this kind of 1950s bra.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“It was great. I mean, a show is always kind of this nerve wracking kind of sense of is this all going to go okay? Is it going to, is everyone going to be okay? I mean, what's wonderful about a show is you have this like kind of fleeting moment where you see look one all the way to the end and it's this one moment where everything lives together before Kind of share it with the world, and you have just this one amazing moment where. Yeah, you never ever get another chance where the whole thing lives together and where you see it in movement on a model. So this whole idea and this whole kind of concept comes together and hopefully people kind of get it and like it.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“It was wonderful, and I met her daughter, who's quite young at the time, and then eventually Cecilie, her daughter, would do an apprenticeship with us, and she embroidered that dress. So it was an amazing kind of circularity. And then the dress on the right is a dress that had belonged to Debo. And those are photos. I took some photographs for. Magazine, which was so wonderful because I was able to kind of really single out the pieces from the collection that were kind of very inspiring and also really capture the textile archives, which were amazing. And I so loved doing that. What's the next one?”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“So chic, I loved it. Here, actually, you can see a little bit of a clearer idea of what the archives feel like. I mean, behind that draped dress is this kind of amazing collection of chintz and a lot of textiles that go back all the way from a lot of it around the sixth duke, which is like, I think 1860-ish, the dress on the my left, which is in the cupboard. It's one of the finale dresses and that to me is a very important dress from the collection because it was like the idea was it was almost like this unfinished kind of 1950s kind of cocktail dress draped and it's made out of a set of curtains that she had lived with but using the kind of in the reverse side of it and many years ago I spent time with Stella who was her granddaughter and looking at kind of tweed mills in the borders and it was”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“Looked at or overlooked, but I also kind of liked that it was a thing that was kind of physically closest to her. There was something amazing about taking something like that and embroidering this thing and making something that people wouldn't even pay maybe attention to and making it kind of quite precious. I mean, there are a lot of things that ended up getting edited out. That's kind of part of one of the hardest things. There was a whole series based on the Devonshire ball dress that she wore, a ball gown dress that she wore that was like an amazing kind of arsenic green. When I was talking to Helen, she showed me this amazing picture of the Golden Gates that lead you to Chatsworth. And on the day of to kind of honor Elvis' death, she had created a gigantic black bow that was on the Golden Gates. And there was like a big bow section, so that didn't make it either. So there's a lot of editing. You do have to make a lot of edits and decisions.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“I know, I know. A very nosy person, so here are these three images you can see, well, on either side you can see images that are from the actual kind of clothing archive, which are in a kind of top floor room. There's also an amazing textile store off-site, which is amazing that houses kind of the bigger things, curtains, carpets, things like that that are very, very big. And we looked at everything, broadly speaking. We really looked at everything everything. And then from there, there were certain pieces that I kind of kept going back to. So for example, the inside of that yellow kitchen dress, the inner lining or the inner kind of slip was this kind of bone tool upper with a kind of a tool skirt and it was so beautiful like the the inside of it was so beautiful and that was something that maybe people had not really”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“There she really opened up the archives, and that's when I really discovered much more about the world of Debo and the kind of great potential of a collection.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“I think they're incredibly kind of organized. They're amazing. Like I said, Susie is amazing. And I met her actually when I was researching another previous collection that was about Adella Stare that was in fall 18. And that show was also at the National Portrait Gallery. Adella Stare had also married into the family and very much was responsible for kind of modernizing Lismoor, which is a kind of quite gothic kind of castle. Awesome. Yeah.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“1950s lingerie and then to the far right you can see the coat in situ in Chatsworth where Susie kind of created an amazing chinced kind of room which is wonderful all like in this amazing room that has wallpaper from 1790 this kind of amazing chinoisery wallpaper so it's this kind of textiles and shape on shape on like it's quite kind of almost overwhelming in a in a very beautiful way”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“In the colonnade, and it was a collaboration I did with Barber. I thought there was something so kind of wonderful about the kind of the waxed cotton, but when we were doing the research, there was a sketch of one of her evening dresses, one of her evening gowns, and it had with it a kind of matching opera coat that was kind of cut very circular and kind of cut very low in the back. And so this idea of maybe cutting a waxed coat like the opera coat that we saw but also it has like the strange chinsey lining and the lining is actually made of kind of textiles that she lived with whether they're upholstery fabrics or curtains or something from her bedroom which we're supposed to go on the inside of the coat but when we're kind of putting in the collection together we actually just thought it looked prettier on the outside but I love the idea that it's kind of falling off and then with the”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“The research process was amazing. I mean, first of all, the family were amazingly generous in allowing us really to explore everything. And then myself and the design team spent so much time up there, whether it was print designers, embroidery designers, or the design team in general. I mean, we just so got into her world and spent so much time with Susie Stokoe, who's the head of textiles and also the curator of the show. This kind of maybe explains a little bit of the kind of how what led to what, but the image of the wax cotton coat is an image that Helen had on a kind of a database of images of things, personal things that belong to her. And the picture above is her with her kind of prized cows, which she loved, and then to the left you can see look one, which is from the show which was at the British Museum.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“This is, of course, her older, her husband would give her a brooch every year in the shape of a bug, and they feature in the exhibit and, of course, very much influenced aspects of the collection with kind of bug brooches. And I love that idea of that kind of that gesture of love I thought was so kind of wonderful.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“Yes, but I thought those three images kind of exemplified different facets of her as a woman. And we'll get into the other aspects as well.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“And her with Kit Kennedy and her tweeds, and then, of course, the kind of almost it looks like she's a debutante, but I don't know.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“One room in the exhibit that I think almost exemplifies her style and there are two things that she had made, which I also thought was very beautiful. And it's the second room that you enter and you see a kind of beautiful kind of 1950s taffeta couture dress and it looks like maybe something she would have had made in France. You have that beautiful dress that actually was made locally by a woman named Mary Feeney. And then you also have a pair of her Elvis slippers that she had made, which I love the contrast of those two things. But here, I think there's three things that just I found so inspiring. The middle is a portrait by Antoni Goni. Yes. And you have the kind of the white, kind of starched collar that she was often photographed wearing. And I found that so kind of beautiful and that kind of hyper realist. Quite strange, kind of beautiful portrait.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“Exactly. I think it's like it kind of became over time, it kind of became almost a little bit of a love letter to someone I didn't know. Yeah, there were so many extraordinary, amazing facets to a woman who probably didn't know that she was going to take over and take charge of this house. And it was such an amazing, intriguing story.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“One of the most interesting things during the research that I spent in Chatsworth was spending the day with Helen Marchant, who was, this is an amazing image of Debbo here. It's been taken by Cecil Beaton. It's so wonderful and that kind of knotted shoulder was something that I found so kind of inspiring. Helen Marchant was the late Dowager Duchess's private secretary and just knew so many nuances about her life and had shared so many amazing images, images of her wearing something from the Devonshire ball that she'd kind of altered slightly or her tending to her amazing chickens that she bred in a waxed cotton coat, which we'll talk about further a little bit later on, but so many different aspects to her personality, her love of Elvis. It was fascinating to spend the day with her because it kind of felt like I was.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“It's an amazing collection. It's so rich, I have to say, like looking even at how style, you know, you had everything from all of the wedding dresses, which was so moving and then also all of the clothes that were worn to funerals as well that was equally moving. But also I was very lucky to be included in that exhibit, as were quite a few young British designers Christopher Gaines, one of them and he's here in the audience, had the amazing gold outfit that he had designed for Stella for the Olympics. Going back to your archive, I mean, everything from amazing dresses that Debo had commissioned in Paris or the livery outfits that were so amazing and a few pieces from the Devonshire bowls that are amazing. I found it so inspiring.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“Yes, so this was an exhibition that I put on. When I look back at it, I think I probably put it on by accident. Invited someone called Hamish Bowles to come. Chatsworth and look at the There's an image from the show. All the wedding”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“Absolutely, or maybe you're looking at something or trying to say something. Like, for example, I did a collection based on Ernest Bolton and Frederick Park at the National Portrait Gallery, and there were two men who lived as women, otherwise known as Stella and Fanny, and they lived around the corner from where we live in Bloomsbury. I loved the idea of these two people living very kind of authentic lives before Oscar Wilde's trial. So although it was looking through a kind of historic lens, I kind of was able to tell quite an interesting, relevant story to today.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“I've always felt like a narrative allows me to kind of begin a collection, and it's always usually a study of someone, whether it's someone like Otlene Morell, for example, or Adella Strere. This is actually the mood board from spring summer 24. So this was the collection that was very much inspired by Debbo. But narrative is always kind of allowed and kind of triggered the collection. It kind of allows me to then look at something, whether it's looking at something very kind of forensically, but usually kind of towards the end once I actually show the collection, it's never usually a kind of direct representation of the muse, if that makes any sense. It's always a starting point, but it goes through a kind of filter, as it were, and it kind of becomes something else in a way.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“The sand was quite good. In the audience, but I don't know a full winter show. And actually also the first collection that I sold where you could actually buy me in London. And also the only one that I think where something was stolen from I had a call from you telling me that that particular dress had been stolen. But more than stolen, the dress was in, I don't know if anyone remember the shop at the Bluebird. It was the shock that I was the buyer for, and someone had gone in the front door and taken not only the dress but the mannequin that the dress was on. I loved it. But did nobody notice when they walked out with it? Maybe they were after the mannequin. The case is still open.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT
“It would have been 2006. Yes, 2006. And I was a fashion buyer and I was at London Fashion Week doing my job, buying clothes. And I saw a show that I thought was very interesting. And the show was Erdom Show. That was your first show. I had a very small amount of budget left because I spent it all. I met you and bought a few dresses. And that's how we met and that was the beginning of our friendship. Yes, you were my first client in London. So I met Laura during London Fashion Week. I had a little stand that Philip had designed. Philip my other.”
2024-07-01 · Intelligence Squared · Sotheby's Talks – Imaginary Conversations: An ERDEM Collection, with Lady Burlington · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT