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Fern Mallis

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95
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2019-02-07
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2019-02-07
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  1. It's not just the same merchandise that you can find in the current lines. It's generally past season or it's, and in many cases there's a separate business. Companies make stuff for the outlet stores. They make other lines that you can't even buy anywhere else that they're a lower price. I don't think those customers getting on the buses at, you know,

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  2. Destinations, right? Yeah. To replicate the headquarter stores so it's not just a bunch of racks of clothes somewhere. You feel like you're in a burberry. You feel like you're in a, you know, a Barney's or whatever's up there.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  3. It's definitely a viable business, and Woodbury Commons is quite phenomenal. I mean, the amount of stores they have, and they create those shopping.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  4. But that has a very different culture and Neman Marcus is going to open in Hudson Yards. You know, and that's going to be interesting. It's not a place with a lot of foot traffic yet. Not yet, anyway. It's got to be.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  5. No, I don't think we are at all. That's why I think this is going to be interesting having the two of them open. But it's going to be interesting. I don't want to pass judgment. I don't want to predict. We'll see. Nordstroms is new to New York. There's a men's store that opened first.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  6. The smart ones will adapt and. And change and evolve as any smart business, but I think you still want to go and see and touch and feel. And if you can make the experience unique and service be an important part of it, I mean, I'm a little nervous in New York in a few months. There's a new Neiman Marcus is going to open up in the city and a Nordstroms in this year. I mean, those are two. Serious department stores opening in New York City in a time when people are just nervous about shopping and going to stores.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  7. I cannot log on to Facebook. I get messages all day long from people on emails, so-and-so commented on. I can't. See any of it. So, if anybody's listening from Facebook.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  8. So, I guess I should be happy that I've been hacked on Facebook like six, seven months ago. And I can't get back on. No matter what I've tried, everything connecting with everybody under the sun. And I have two pages, a verified one and a personal one.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  9. It's a huge part of the fashion industry. It's a huge part of every industry. I mean, technology has changed the way we do everything. It's a little bit of Big Brother watching you in a way, and it's a little bit scary some days. Know if you just look at something online, the next time you open up your computer, 10 sites jump in your face Like, are you looking for a tote bag? Whatever. It's, it's invasive. It is scary.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  10. New York store. The Versace store is closing on Fifth Avenue. There's all sorts of stores going out everywhere. The Gap store is closing on Fifth Avenue. But retailers are looking at creating experiences again. I know Saxon Avenues going under major renovation. They've moved accessories up and panbags down and cosmetics at another up to another floor. They've just bringing in a very fancy restaurant from France, La Avenue. They're trying to create reasons for people to come back into the stores. And I think that's a good thing. And e-commerce companies like Rent the Runway have begun to open retail outposts.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  11. Some of the very big conglomerates, you know, what's the word I'm thinking of, who put all the different looks together, far-fetched, who has all the different stores on it. The e commerce, the online business is enormous. This holiday season it was huge. What that is hurting more than anything is the retail experience. So it's forcing stores again, at least smart stores, to rethink what they're doing and to create an experience to make shopping matter again. I mean, it's very sad when you walk around New York and you see all the Ferent signs. You know, Lord and Taylor's just closed down.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  12. I think those are all the different aspects of the industry that have evolved over the years. I think Rent the Runway is a brilliant business. Jennifer Hyman started, I worked with her at IMG. We were there at the same time. It's quite remarkable. The rental business period is becoming a big, big business because people It's also sustainable. Also, you don't need to buy the stuff. You don't need to own it in your closet. All of that is great, but e commerce is very much a part of everybody's business, the highest end luxury people that everybody's available on e-commerce one way or another, whether it's their own site or they're part of matches fashion or net aporte or

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  13. Depends on who you are. If you're a consumer who wants to buy something really fast and of the moment, and that's really inexpensive, it's a great thing if you're a designer and a... A company with integrity who plays by the rules of time and place and making something and putting out a quality product, it's not such a good thing. If you're into sustainable fashion in the industry, it's not such a good thing because there's a ton of stuff that's being made that is filling landfills. There are a lot of problems, but fast fashion has woken up a lot of people. I mean, the HMs of the world and Top Shop and Sarah's and what have you. But the customer who's buying that is not the customer who's buying really designer clothes. People know the difference. The luxury business right now is doing very well. The LVMHs, the Louis Vuitton, Chanel.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  14. It didn't take long at all, it happened very quickly. And I'm extremely proud of what that meant to these people and to the industry and to our city and our culture. But that first season, that first sound check when the music really went blasting, you know, goosebumps all over. You know, you just couldn't believe it was really happening. We did a ribbon cutting with Dinket and Mayor Dinkin's wife, John.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  15. Only with much bigger egos. Yeah, you could say that. But they understood at the beginning that this was going to, if this is going to work, we all have to do it together. So the first seasons, we did have Calvin Klein in the tents and Donna Karen and Ralph Lauren, who eventually those designers moved out to do their own thing, which was fine. It helped get this off the ground. We invited all the European press and buyers to come in. It changed the world and it changed the fashion industry.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  16. Oh, God knows. Oh, absolutely. It's the war room with the slots and moving the post-its around until you got a calendar that worked.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  17. It was pretty extraordinary. I mean, we had started first at the Maclow Hotel, which was then became the millennial hotel, just to see if we can get more than three designers to do something together, because their egos are such that nobody wants to do anything in the same space. But they realized.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  18. He helped you the way you design work. Business improvement district. We wound up eventually making a deal with Dan and with Brian Park. It was literally the backyard to the industry. People loved it there.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  19. Yeah. And so we began, my job became find a place. So I was riding around New York. I'd look at every empty pier, every big parking lot. Can we put tents up here? How big could we do this? San Herman, who was the president of the CFDA office, is actually on the corner of 40th and 6th overlooking Bryan Park. And he was on the board of the community board there and worked closely with Dan Biederman, who I know you've interviewed.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  20. It is a very, very special place. And the lawn there, it was like the backyard to the garment center because it was a block away from Seventh Avenue Broadway, where all the showrooms were Was walking distance everything. There was lots of public transportation and subways block away from Times Square two blocks from Grand Central. I mean, you don't get a better location than Brian Park.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  21. That's very funny. And I looked at all that and I said, I think my job description just changed. And my job then started immediately when I got there to figure out a way to do safe sound places for the American designers to do their runway shows.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  22. But when it landed in the lapse of Susie Menkis from the International Herald Tribune, Carrie Donovan, the fashion critic at the New York Times, they wrote the next day We live for fashion, we don't want to die for it.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  23. Well, there you go. He brought the roof down. And plaster was on the shoulders of Naomi and Cindy and Linda and all the one named supermodels of the day. But they kept walking

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  24. Well, the ceiling trembled And plaster started falling off from the ceiling, and the ceiling literally was falling down on the runway.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  25. Michael Kors had a show in an empty loft space in Chelsea, and when you turn the bass music on in a space for a fashion show, it's very loud and if things aren't nailed down, they tend to tremble.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  26. No, it's the truth. Paris and Milan were London a little bit, New York was somewhat of an afterthought. New York was treated as their last on the calendar. They're waiting to see what we do in Europe, and they're going to copy us. It was crazy, so I had just been hired. This is back in 91. I was selected as the executive director of the CFDA After they did a very long search, after I left the design universe of IDCNY and all of that. And there was this little organization, the CFDA, which had done a big AIDS benefit called Seventh on Sale. And that's when I got involved with them. And I was hired as their executive director. It was March of 91. And I believe that exactly, I was hired at the end of March. I didn't start till mid-April. There was a market week fashion week in between.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  27. And it was complicated, expensive, and it was at a time when the American designers weren't really well known and reaching out to Europe. The biggest European expansion was Calvin Klein maybe doing fragrance.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  28. Well, before Fashion Week was formally created and organized, centralized, and modernized, which is what I like to say we did, there were fashion shows. I mean, the industry had its biannual timetable to get its collections out in front of buyers, but it was a very, very exclusive insider event. If you weren't in the industry, you didn't know about it. If you went by a building on 7th Avenue, you might think, what's going on if there's a line outside getting in or something? If there were 50 shows, they were in 50 different locations, and nobody talked to each other. It was up town, downtown, midtown. You know, if somebody had a show in the Pierre Hotel in the morning, they'd have to take everything down in the afternoon because somebody had a Barmitzva there that night.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  29. That was pre Amazon. Are you kidding now? If I wish when I was there that I bought property in Long Island City, for Amazon, before Amazon, they were building.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  30. It was a multimillion dollar complex, and it still is one of the most extraordinary set of buildings, the old factories that were retrofitted to design showrooms. The best architects in the world designed them all.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  31. No, but Chicago, but New York, it didn't work. And we had, they were closing lanes of the bridge all the time. I recall that. They really screwed it up.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  32. It didn't work out. You know, going over the bridge in New York, if you're If you're not going to the airport or going home.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  33. No. It's not IDC. IDC was competition to all those buildings in Long Island City, and people were very nervous that. Everybody was going to go over the bridge.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  34. Extraordinary project building a million square feet of showrooms for the interior furnishings industry. And we helped build that. And I was very much involved in that, working with I am paying partners in Gwaffe Siegel, and I am and the Vignellis who did the graphics. Wonderful time in my life

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  35. Yes. And I had a PR firm and I started representing the first one was a fashion client was Sherivari store that was very famous on the west side, Selma Wiser, and a few other fashion friends, and then it shifted to architecture and interior designed And representing all the major furniture companies and textile companies, because I love that world. I love the whole design world, how it all connects and lifestyle. And I then left that to join one of my clients, which was the IDCNY, International Design Center in New York in Long Island City. Was right over the bridge. It was a.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  36. The actual fashion, I like being the one people wanted to come to. It just wasn't the right fit for me. But eventually I opened up a PR firm. And I basically did that because I thought I had 941 on my forehead. Everybody would call me for, where do I get this? How do I get that? Can you connect me with this? I was like, what are my central booking information here? And I realized I could get paid for that information. So I opened up a PR firm in my friends' offices who were architects and interior designers. And at the time... Place it contextually. They were designing Studio 54. So that was a fun, heady time to be around them.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  37. There were several things in between that, including working for Gimbles East as fashion director on the uptown store when that was there. I worked on 7th Avenue for a short time. I hated that side of the business.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  38. Yeah, you could say that, and it was a great experience. And then when I moved into the merchandising area, in my 20s was traveling to every single state in the country going to department stores when they all had regional names and identities before they were all bought by Macy's and doing store events, bringing the magazine to life. It was a great experience.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  39. Going forward after that. Going forward, I was in the college competitions area and then merchandising and marketing. But in the college comp area, it was very interesting Talking 1970. I graduated in'69 Revealing my age here when people do the math. But it was when the world was coming apart. It was Vietnam War, it was craziness. And so going to college campuses to talk about a fashion magazine. Mademoiselle was more than a fashion magazine. It was really the thinking woman's magazine in its time. It was one of the best books in the Cunningham Stable

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  40. Wale before when they were in college getting the junior or senior year of college. And I was at the University of Buffalo, came back and did my guest editorship. And then I was the only one of my 20 in that group that was asked to stay on at the magazine with a full-time job.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  41. Well, I actually, that's how my career really started. I won a contest. I was a Mademoiselle guest editor, which was a very big deal when I was growing up. They picked 20 students from around the country to guest edit their. College issue come to New York for a month. Today it would be a reality TV show with 20 girls out to kill each other in some apartment to get the job or the boyfriend. And it was an extraordinary experience. Sylvia Plath was a guest editor, Allie McGraw, Betsy Johnson before me.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  42. Oh, you know, eventually they did expand and then they shut down like everything else. But those were my first jobs while I was in school. But then my first real job was at Mademoiselle magazine at Conde Nest.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  43. Well, I never worked for a family member luckily. I just grew up surrounded by them and learned about the industry. But my early jobs in high school, my summer jobs were a simplicity patterns, which was a big deal at that time when people used to make their own clothes and a department store. Do you ever remember the name Orbax

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  44. To the garment district when it was a bustling, hustling place. All those carts on the street and all those people who knew each other. And I learned and I watched and I loved it and I loved clothing.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source

  45. Yes, I guess you could say I was always interested in it. I grew up in Brooklyn. My dad worked in the Gorman Center. And his brothers work there as well. My dad was in accessories, scarves primarily, and the uncles were in textiles and in sportswear. They were in business. I grew up going with him to work every time I could, every day off from school.

    2019-02-07 · Masters in Business · Fern Mallis Discusses the Fashion Industry (Podcast) · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT · source