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Sarah Langford

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2022-10-19
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2022-10-19
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  1. Order to reconnect people with their food, they have to be honest about what it is, where it comes from, what's in it. Sarah, it's been such like we could carry on talking about this subject, which is so meaty. Didn't even get onto soil, Tori. We'd have bored everyone silly talking about it. We did talk about soil. And it is such a fascinating subject. I'm sad we have got another three hours, but it's been so delightful to talk about you and hear a little bit about your journey. And for anyone listening, honestly, rooted is the most incredible read. It makes farming fascinating. I say that. I am quite fascinated already because it is at such a brilliant subject. So thank you so much, Sarah Langford. Thank you very much. And thank you to our audience. And thank you to Intelligence Squared.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  2. Is an easy solution and it removes them even further from their food. And I mean, I start the book with a poem by Mary Oliver who also wrote the line, Attention is the beginning of devotion. You can't care about something you don't know about. The book is very much a sort of my own awakening, if you like, like being a deep-sea diver and then having only known the surface going underneath and seeing this world underneath.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  3. Complicated, right? It's really hard to be able to get something which looks at how a regenerative system which uses livestock can also not just sequester carbon but can also hugely increase insects, bird life, the ecological and biological value of that farm can create a soil that will hold water so that villages downstream are not flooded and their homes aren't ruined. All these layers of benefit are very hard to just stap in a statistic. And so all the nuance, like with most political debate, gets lost and it is reduced to a tagline. And what I find so frustrating about it is it allows people to make a choice and they think that that is

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  4. How it was all part of a system, it wasn't just like one separated thing off. And it just felt very, it felt very Brexit. It felt like you could put a slogan on a bus and it didn't really matter what the actual evidence said people would absorb it and run with it because it was it played into their kind of own prejudices. I have found so compelling about farming is how intellectual it is. You have to be an ecologist, a biologist, an economist, marketing manager. The level of understanding that you need to have about how natural systems work is really layered. You have to be able to look at a larvae and go, well, that's a ladybird larvae that will hatch in however long. So I don't need to worry about my beans being covered in aphids because when that hatches, that's going to eat everything. So I don't need to spray it. You know, that kind of detail you need to know about.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  5. How grazing in a particular way, let's call it regenerative grazing, which is not the same as turning out sheep or cows or whatever into a field and just leaving it there, which is called set stocking, how that regenerative grazing can double the amount of forage in a field, which of course doubles the land value, doubles the amount of, well, let's look at it the other way, halves the amount of land you need to create the same amount of forage.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  6. So the cow pat has hit the van. Don't be a carnivore. And it was very conspiratorial, like the silly parochial farming people with their cows and their sheep. And we have basically sophisticated ourselves out of meat. We've managed to create products that don't even really, we don't even need to really think about their provenance. They're just we'll put a little green label on it and you know you can order that as the option on your short haul flight to Rome for the weekend and feel good about it. And it was so different to mostly the research that I had been reading about how grazing transformed soil, how grazing could be an alternative to fungicides, for example, putting sheep on early wheats.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  7. Want to write rooted, and it was just after Vanuary and I was in London and I was on a tube and all the adverts for Veganuary were still up and they were all very brightly colored and mostly from big kind of global because our food system is very much global. So KFC or big brands and they were persuading people to choose a very well, it looked like and I did actually look up the ingredients afterwards so they were very highly processed plant based alternatives which were presented as a significantly better option not because they were necessarily more nutritious but because they were more ecological and there was a tone in them that was all about laughing at the people who ate meat.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  8. You know, things like the microbial networks and the soil, that we really knew nothing about even 15 years ago. And we're still on the kind of iceberg of discovering how that plays into the natural cycle and the fertility of the soil, and especially with these weather patterns now, you know, how we're going to be able to farm food with drought and flooding and keep resilient. So I wonder what your thoughts are then about this quite urban dialogue about eschewing meat altogether because I definitely call myself, I'm largely vegetarian doing the week. I mean, I eat very little meat during the week. I definitely do eat meat. I just try not to eat too much of it. But there's a definite, you know, veganism kind of push. So I wonder what you make out because it's almost, again, like the farmers are being vilified, even in regenerative agriculture where they're trying to put back nature into the soil. I had a moment, which is one of the things that made me.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  9. And maybe this is the speed that you were talking about right at the beginning, the way this revolution seemed to be quite slow to begin with and now seems to be escalating. It's just as you say in Groundswell, there are all these farmers with this thirst for knowledge, it seems, you know, who are really excited and interested by these new discoveries they're making about quite ancient techniques.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  10. Two crops together, and one didn't work. Why was that? And I think that is kind of transformatory for an industry to be able to say, look at all our failures and let's all learn together from them. Well, yes, because it feels to me, like one of the keys to chemical farming, let's call it, because I kind of shy away from conventional farming because it feels like that's a term that describes how farming always was. Whereas it's only been the last 60, 70 years that we've actually fought with chemicals. So I like to say chemical farming, but then all industrial farming, whatever. But anyway, that type of farming, what they really did is they separated out and did this kind of mono farming that you talked about. So, you know, lots and lots of animals in a field intensively reared or lots and lots of arable crops grown. And they separated that kind of natural cycle. And I think what I find very exciting.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  11. I mean, farming over the hedgeray farming is I do it all the time. I bet you do it as well. It's extremely tempting just to go, what's going on in there? Farm walks are just as one lovely Lancashire farmer said to me, just charts have a right good nosy around someone else's farm. So I think it's really brave to be able to say, I'm going to do it differently. I might get it wrong. Maybe I'll get it wrong, but I am going to have a go and experiment with it. And I don't, I mean, both, I know you and I have both been to the same regenerative farming festival, which is called Groundswell. And what I think is really unusual about Groundswell as opposed to other, not just farming, but other conferences I've been to is that the whole thing is about admitting your failures in a way. Loads of the groups are about what did you do wrong that didn't work so that we can use for it. When you planted those

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  12. Jersey cows and those three jersey cows then started what in five years has been the most extraordinary transformation into a cow with calved dairy where you keep cows with the keep calves with their cows and they've got a farm shop, they've got a restaurant, they are doing multiple other livestock animals as well. They've got a little beef herd so they have revolutionized what's happening on their land and they're all doing it within a regenerative system. So it takes huge bravery not just to say I won out which let's be honest in some farmer's case this isn't possible because there's so much tied up with it family wise and it takes huge bravery to do it when all of your neighbors are going that looks a mess.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  13. Lost his dairy in the 90s, and he was so desperate to get back to it. And his application to his local council was up against, I think it was 87 others. So I wanted to get across a sense that this can be grindingly hard and often the farmers I met kept going and kept going because there's always something on your orders like it has to be done until they reach a kind of crisis point. And in a way it's a release. It's like the crack that lets the light in because when you've got nothing left, you can then rebuild it up. And so in Rebecca and Stuart's case, when they were left with no more pigs, they decided, well, they went on holiday for the first holiday. They'd been on for many years and fell in love with some.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  14. And they had to make a decision, and the decision either was to sell the farm or to change how they did it. Because they were making money. Because they weren't, well, I've got Rebecca and Stuart who were intensive pig farmers and they just had a decade worth of both disease and mechanical failure. They had two ventilation failures that wiped out hundreds of pigs. And it was so debilitating not just for their bank account but for their mental health that they couldn't carry on as they were. I do have Ollie who is a tenant on a council farm. I thought it was really important to have tenant farmers in there because I think we all think that farmers own their own land and a third of all farm farms is tenanted in England which is exactly like my grandfather's. Ollie had his father

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  15. Reality of replanted love hedgerows along old boundary lines in dividing up our three big East Anglian fields we were able to reclaim old field names and then discovered that they would share the surname of a local tree surgeon whose family must have at one point had a connection with that field so I found it extraordinarily humbling to feel like a very tiny Lincoln a very long chain having come from the city where you're told you're kind of wonderful importer we think you're led to believe you're very important all the time but I don't know that many of the farmers who are in the chapters would have described their life as romantic before and I think what I found was a common theme because I've got a variety of different farmers farming in a variety of different ways is that there was a crunch point there was a crisis

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  16. Farming hasn't been romantic in that bucolic urban angle on it for a very long time. And I wanted to make sure that I had a counterbalance of both the beauty that I was seeing in the memoir chapters that splice it and the brutal reality of being a dairy farmer, especially during the early 2000s, but with rising inputs. how hard it was to make a profit when you are your inner cycle where the wheat that you're growing requires you to put on inputs otherwise you will just not create enough yield to justify expenditure on the artificial fertilizers and various chemicals you need so I found a huge romance in it I loved the idea well practice

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  17. In his grave at the idea that he wrote poetry because he did not write poetry. What I did was he kept farming diaries from 1939 to 2008. And I read them, which I had always led to believe that they were basically about the weather, which was true. A lot of them were about the weather. But there were also, I realized, the whole language of how farming had changed so much from when he started doing his dairy.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  18. Humankind, as it were, you know, we're threatened without these insects on who survive we depend on. And it felt that these full armor stories you talked about in your book were really at this cutting edge of not eschewing modern technology, because in fact they were embracing technology, new technology to be able to particularly work out exactly where a plant might need a little bit of nitrogen to help it grow. But other than that, leave the field alone as much as possible and do this no-till digging. And I could feel that Russia excitement through these often completely new farmers and very brave decisions. I mean, will you tell me a bit about the bravery some of these people against this tidal wave of conventional chemical farming, industrial farming, you know, and then these new brave kind of citizens who are going to almost trying to create a new form of farming? I should say that my grandfather is currently like.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  19. Yes, and I think that's what you capture so beautifully and rooted because it feels to me that it is a story of yesteryear and you have got some absolutely beautiful quotes of your grandfather's and poetry that he's written about the romance of being on the land. And I think that's what you really capture in this book, actually, is the romance of nature, which I found really moving when I read it. And I wasn't expecting that. But you also capture, which I'm really fascinated by, is this excitement, this tangible excitement at people who are on the cutting edge of science and really discovering a way they can put back because, you know, in my humble opinion, you know, I know that 30% of greenhouse gas emissions are caused by food production. And we also, all of us have read about the massive insect depletion. And I know through my own experience that, you know, without the earthworm, the bumblebee and the tongue beetle, you know.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  20. Barley barons and the subsidy payments of the 80s have made very few farmers rich for the last 20 years. And it feels like a sort of reversal to that getting out of farming is happening.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  21. They just wanted more meaning and purpose than the job that they had been doing. And there was something extremely exciting and energizing about these groups of people who were going on farm walks, sharing pictures on social media, being part of WhatsApp groups, saying, I'm doing it like this, what do you do? Oh, I'm doing it like this. And there is a proportion of it, which is first generation farmers, which I find really, really interesting, particularly when maybe 10 years ago it was common, as it has been in my family with my cousins who do not want to farm. My grandfather was on an old-fashioned three-generation tenancy, so in principle, in theory, they could have had it if any of the three of them were interested in it. And completely understandably, having seen how hard Farming has been for the last 20 years, the kind of glory days of

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  22. Last year alone, there was a paramedic documentary maker, a businessman having a midlife crisis. There were three lawyers, if you count me. So there was something that was drawing people in outside of the world of farming. And a lot of them were interested in regenerative systems. And Regenerative Systems, they're not organic. You can use chemicals. It's a point of some tension, but you can use chemicals in regenerative systems. The idea is to try and minimize the use of their use and to go back to a system that works using biology. But it hasn't got the very strict rules that organic has. It felt more maybe accessible and more easy to transition to than organic does. And I think there was something deeper going on as well with the people that I met, which is

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  23. Which has been really interesting to be honest, the most interesting thing is to see who's doing it. So I want to, I'm a graduate diploma course. And I think this is one of the things which I kept seeing when I was talking to farmers who, some of whom are in the book, some of whom are not in the book. But when I was kind of traveling around the country, meeting people, what I saw in the enthusiasm for this way of farming was a lot of first generation entrants who were coming into it. So there were definitely people who got a connection with farming, either because they had returned to it having left the city or because they were second, third, sixth generation farmers. But there were other people who had no real, obvious connection with farming who felt a very strong pull towards it in my

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  24. Big problem. We've seen how soil erosion around the world and desertification is having a big kind of impact on farming. So clearly, lots of stuff needs to be done in this field. So I'm fascinated by how you stumbled upon it and also how your intellect that you took from law and your law career and kind of translate it into farming. Because I believe you even went back to college, didn't you? Yeah, I'm still there. Yeah, I'm doing a part-time graduate diploma in agriculture at Cirencester, which is now the Royal Agriculture University. But when my dad...

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  25. And having as many connections with those people as possible and how they get their food. So it can be broad and it can be narrow. Those were the kind of commonalities that I saw on lots of farms, whether they were farming predominantly arable, whether they were farming livestock. And I think what's really interesting about this, because you and I share a passion fact, I think when we properly first sat down at a dinner together, which was in Suffolk, we realized that we were both total soil geeks because I was, my kind of disclaimer is that I was at Bellium Blue Cookery School 20 years ago where Derena Allen was even then talking about our soil degradation around the world and how dangerous it was, the fact that 95% of our food today is still grown in soil. And yet it's been degraded at the rate of kind of free football pitches a minute. Some people say, but definitely it's a

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  26. More plants, more animals, and a really interesting one, which leads into another term. I mean, there are a lot that people bandy about, but agroecological farming. So this idea that it's not just what you grow on the land, it's about the communities around it and the people upon it.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  27. And to cover the earth, essentially, or to use those plants within your crop under sowing it, for example. And the other principle was the integration of livestock. So using livestock as a tool within your system, within a holistic system, by which I mean everything joined up all together, a tool that organic farmers, our farmers now converted to organic, have been using for a long time but had sort of fallen out of favour because chemicals were there to take animals place in terms of both facility and in terms of using sheep for example to graze off what is not wanted so those kind of principles were the kind of three main legs and then within each one was the idea of diversity so a move away from monocultures a move towards

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  28. Meaningless, but also an acknowledgement that the natural systems are so depleted that we cannot and should not sustain that depletion. They need to be regenerated. So in trying to regenerate the soil, the techniques which I saw most often are firstly about disturbing that soil as little as possible, which usually meant either completely stopping ploughing or minimum cultivation, minimum inversion tillage, which meant that the fungal pathways went broken up, worm numbers weren't destroyed, and carbon wasn't released into the atmosphere. The second principle was to try and keep living roots in the ground all year round. And that could be using cover crops, growing something after harvest and before your next crop to keep both the biology happening.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  29. Already feel quite strongly that we've got very good produce, world leading produce in many ways. And it feels like that has really escalated. But I guess just for the purposes of ourselves and our audience, what is your definition of what regenerative agriculture really is so we can get into the nuts and bolts of it? Well, the clues and the question, because it would be my definition, there isn't one yet. And I know that there's a great argument for keeping that as loose as possible because the same techniques will not work for everybody's land and farm. So regenerative agriculture, as I have come to understand it, really stands on a number of principles is regeneration of the soil. And I think what marks it out from what I've previously been called sustainable farming in part was just an overuse of the word sustainable so that it was

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  30. Chemicals and machinery. And so I had to ask myself the question, in that whole generational shift, we've gone from hero to villain in the space of one generation, where do we go now? How are we going to meet all the demands that we are making of our land now? And so that's what really led me to realize this slow at that time, not so much now, slow revolution that was happening all over the country, which was calling itself regenerous Americulture. Yes, I think what you touch upon there is really fascinating because it feels like what you call as regent of agriculture has been this initially slow transition because we all were told with Brexit that there was this great opportunity that we could lead the way with forward-looking farming and carb the whole new rollout for ourselves as food producers because I think many of us

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  31. And so I realized that my own family are farmers, my grandparents were post-war farmers, my grandfather took on his tenancy in Hampshire just five years after rationing ended in a country that was still very much feeling the impact of war and the need for self-sufficiency. And my dad was a land agent for the whole of his career. My uncle Charlie had taken on the tenancy in the 80s. And I realized that even in that dynamic, in my own family, we had gone from my grandpa who had absolutely been considered a hero. He was very sure of his place in the local community. He was providing food. He was doing what his government asked him to my uncle who very much felt like he was perceived as a villain because he was using

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  32. Instead, there was this new phrase public money for public good, which was coming in. And so we were faced with this choice. And it was a choice of economic stability, but also moral one, because I had been in the city where I had been told multiple times by newspapers and posters that the best thing we might be able to do is rewild it or take it out of farming altogether. And so I kind of set off on this exploration to try and work out what we should do now that we had the huge opportunity to make the decisions about it. And that is what led me to understand that within my own family, I realized that I had the background to help me make that decision. Because, like that great phrase goes further backwards you look, the further forward you can see. And you can't, I couldn't work out where we were going unless I worked out how we got here.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  33. Had based my work life and moved to Suffolk, which is where Ben grew up. And we hadn't planned on this. It was, I hadn't particularly wanted it. To go to the countryside, it wasn't For kind of, you know, goats and jabs. And things like that. I liked the city. I was Up And so that is what I suppose was even Fell in love with this new life, which was in part.

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  34. About this almost forgotten background of farming that goes back into your family. So do you want to touch upon both those things for us? Well, maybe I should start with explaining how the whole thing came about in the first place. That comment was made by my literary agent who is a self-confessed urbanite. And after in your defense, which was a book about 10 years I'd spent as a criminal family barrister, she had very clear plans of what was coming next, which was obviously a crime fiction novel because that's a natural leap from a criminal barrister to write crime fiction, of course, makes much more sense than write about farming. But while I was writing in your defence, in 2017, my husband Ben lost his job and we left London, which is where we had based ourselves for the whole of our married life.

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  35. Extraordinary people that I had met in this journey of becoming a farmer, which I had not expected to be on. And I wanted to make people who may never pick up a book about farming to think, well, I'm sucked into the story and that's keeping me going. And on the way, I learn about this world that I may never have thought about in that particular way. So that was the idea behind it. And I think you've done that incredibly well. In fact, I was very moved by your book launch where someone said in the speeches that they were a total city girl, almost terrified of the country and yet completely gripped by this book, which is true because the storytelling's wonderful. But I'm really intrigued by what you just said. The stereotypes of farmers, but also your link to the farming because you talk a bit about your journey into farming, which I'd love you to tell us now, but also.

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  36. I understood in that job that stories can be extraordinarily powerful. We understand our world through stories all the time. And while polemics are useful and have their place, I know that I respond to stories really well. And so I wanted to write in your defense was similar, but I wanted to write with rooted about this world that is full of cartoons and stereotypes. Everybody has a really clear image in their head when I say the word pharma. It could be an image from a children's picture book or it could be an image from a poster of ecological destruction. And of course, like everything in life, it's just a bit more complicated than that. And so within your defense, I wanted to do that with some of the people that I represented in the courts. And en routed, I wanted to do that with some of the

    2022-10-19 · Intelligence Squared · Food, Land and a Farming Revolution, with Sarah Langford · IDENTIFIED FROM THE TRANSCRIPT

  37. Sarah, what a pleasure to be talking to you here for Intelligence Squared. I am a huge fan. I have red muted. I took it away with me last half term and it was wonderful. I particularly love your style of writing where you bring in stories from other followers. Was that what you did in your first book, where you were in stories about law and entered into your subject matter that way? Well, I guess for the whole of my career, because I was a criminal and family barrister before this unexpected life pivot. And that job was based around stories, really. Every time I stood up in front of a jury and often a judge, I was there to take somebody into the world of someone that they may never have seen other than in a two-dimensional form of paperwork.

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